Dining on boxty at Bricín in Killarney in Ireland earlier this evening was something to which I was looking forward. I had never heard of boxty, which is a traditional Irish potato pancake. I enjoy potato latkes and have tried them in such cities as Minsk in Belarus; so I thought I would order something that is traditionally eaten in Ireland.
Dining on Boxty at Bricín in Killarney in Ireland. Restaurant Review.
“The name Bricín is a by-word for delicious food with an emphasis on traditional Irish cuisine in Killarney”, according to the official Internet site of the restaurant, which shares a building with its own Irish craft shop. “Brothers Johnny and Paddy McGuire believe in offering their diners a unique experience in terms of enjoying the best and the freshest of Irish food served in a restaurant unique for its old-world ambience and warm welcome. Paddy is head chef and Johnny is the welcoming face on the restaurant floor.”
Despite only being open for 3.5 hours per night five nights per week, Bricín offers an Early Bird Menu at 6:00 in the evening which costs €29.00 for two courses or €32.00 for three courses. While I was outside of the restaurant, an elderly couple from the United States looked at the menu that was on display. The woman said, “They have an Early Bird special — oh, wait. We are too late. It is almost 6:00.”
I said to them that they can partake in the Early Bird Menu because the restaurant does not open until 6:00.
“Ooohhh…you know what? Maybe we will eat here”, she said to her partner before turning to me and saying, “You know, Early Bird in the United States does not start at 6:00.”
“You mean it starts like around 4:30?” I replied.
“Yes! That’s right”, she exclaimed with a smile.
We headed upstairs once the restaurant opened at 6:00 in the evening.
Not long after being seated, we were served bread with butter. I do not like walnuts. I typically do not eat butter. The walnut bread — I assume it was a variation of a typical Irish soda bread — and the butter were absolutely delicious. The butter was served in a ramekin and looked as though it was fresh; and it was likely Irish butter. I could have eaten more of it with no problem.
We decided to go with the three courses for €32.00. One starter was Deep Fried Camembert in a light beer batter with cranberry sauce. I do not like cheese in general; but I did try the crunchy crust with the sauce with whole cranberries, which I liked. The Camembert cheese was quite rich and creamy. The salad which accompanied it had a nice mild but flavorful dressing whose ingredients included honey mustard and vinegar.
The other starter that was ordered was a special that was not included on the menu: Pea and Coriander soup, which was full of flavor and not too creamy, as I typically do not like soups with cream in them. Even freshly ground pepper could not improve the flavor of this soup. Peas are one of my favorite vegetables. I polished off the bowl, as this soup did not disappoint.
The main course and the star of the show was eventually served: the version by Bricín of the traditional Irish potato pancake called boxty, which was cooked on the griddle with house salad and Irish lamb with vegetables that have been marinated and curried — but not too spicy. Two of them were ordered. The boxty was like a cross between the flavor and texture of a potato latke and the thinness of a crêpe. Its exterior was uniformly crispy without it being burnt. The lamb was incredibly tender and not gamey; and the sauce was velvety and not overpowering. The salad was the same as what was served with the appetizer. As with the soup, both plates were polished off.
Other choices to accompany the boxty instead of lamb and vegetables included:
- Chicken fillet and vegetables in a creamy tarragon scented sauce
- Ratatouille, mixed vegetables in a piquant tomato sauce
Apples and pears were featured in the Fruit Crumble with custard and cream. The fruit was cooked just long enough to not lose their freshness. The custard and whipped cream contributed to a sensational flavor combination that was not too sweet.
The Warm Chocolate Cake was served with softly whipped cream and a thick chocolate sauce. Everything simply went well together for a great dessert. Each dessert was served with an orange fruit called the Physalis peruviana, which is more commonly known as a Cape gooseberry, a goldenberry, or a Peruvian groundcherry. The mild yet bold tartness of the fruit cut into the sweetness of the cake almost perfectly. The fruit was served with its calyx open. The calyx is not edible.
Finally, mint flavored chocolates wrapped in gold foil were served in a dish at the end of the meal. I am not sure if the chocolate is that of Bricín, which sells its own branded chocolate in the Irish craft shop.
The restaurant also has an extensive selection of wines, beers, spirits, and whisky — including no fewer than sixteen varieties of Irish whiskey.
Using the toilet was even interesting with the assorted paraphernalia that was hanging on the walls with regard to Killarney.
Final Boarding Call
I highly recommend dining at Bricín — to the point that if you find yourself in Killarney, you must not miss dining here. The food was excellent and incredibly fresh. Members of the staff were friendly, warm, and welcoming; the service had no issues at all whatsoever; the ambiance was cozy and comfortable; and the prices were fairly reasonable for the quality of food that was provided.
Considering that Bricín is only open 17.5 hours per week and is a popular place to dine with the local people, booking reservations is strongly recommended. The restaurant was at full capacity with patrons during most of our entire dining experience. The total cost of the meal was $78.31 in United States dollars.
Bricín is located in the city center of Killarney in County Kerry. Be aware that traffic can get quite congested in this area; so give yourself plenty of time if you plan on driving to the restaurant.
Bricín
26 High Street
Killarney, County Kerry
Ireland
+353 64 6634902
Operating Hours
Tuesday through Saturday from 6:00 in the evening through 9:30 in the evening.
Closed Sunday and Monday.
Free parking is available on the street and in a car park nearby located just north of the restaurant — but if you arrive between 4:30 in the afternoon and 6:30 in the evening, you will be required to pay €0.60.
All photographs ©2024 by Brian Cohen.
