Whale and lutefisk at Bryggen Tracteursted in Bergen in Norway were only two of the delicacies that were ordered and served. After a long day of cruising in the fjords and walking around Bergen, we wanted traditional Norwegian cuisine that was close to the hotel property at where we were staying.
Whale and Lutefisk at Bryggen Tracteursted in Bergen in Norway. Restaurant Review.
Established in 1708, Bryggen Tracteursted was not the easiest restaurant to find because it is part of Bryggen and located in a historic behind the famed commercial structures by the wharf in Bergen.
We did not have reservations; but because we arrived early, reservations were not necessary. We were immediately seated at a table in the rustic building. Some of the seats had fur skins, although I do not believe they are from real animals — but they did contribute to the warm, cozy, and rustic ambiance inside of the restaurant.
We arrived in time for the first night of the Christmas edition of the “Norwegian Tapas” of Bryggen Tracteursted, which was 185 Norwegian kroner per dish. Three dishes to four dishes were recommended per person. The restaurant also has a full bar.
A basket in the shape of a box contained sourdough bread and Norwegian flat bread with whipped unsalted butter. Fortunately, coarse salt was already available in a small dish on the table. The bread was fresh and hearty; and the flat bread had a nice flavor but was somewhat dry on its own. It paired well with some of the food we ordered. 75 Norwegian kroner
Einebærrøkt Laks Fra Leiren Laks is the juniper smoked salmon from Leiren Laks, which is served with wild garlic-flavored leek confit, asparagus foam, and purple onions. I am not familiar with the flavor of juniper; so I could not detect its flavor — but the salmon itself was delicious with a full flavor. 185 Norwegian kroner
Mild Rakfisk is fermented trout that was served with sour cream, chopped onions, and flat bread. Rakfisk is a traditional Norwegian dish with origins dating back to the Middle Ages. It is made by using an ancient preservation method in which the fish undergoes fermentation, resulting in a distinctive aroma and texture. I enjoyed it; but I might have preferred if it were more thinly sliced instead of in its thick fleshy form. 185 Norwegian kroner
Kryddersild is spiced herring that was served with crushed potato salad, sour cream, sliced radishes, beets, and traditional Norwegian Potato Lefse, which is a traditional soft Norwegian flat bread whose ingredients include riced potatoes, all purpose wheat flour, butter, and milk, cream, or lard. Lefse is cooked on a large flat griddle. Fished during springtime, the herring has had ample time to be “fattened”. It is stored in barrels filled with brine, salt, and spices, which allow enzymes to mature the fish and give the herring ideal consistency and taste. The lefse had a nice flavor; but it was rather dry. I do not know what were the spices that were used in this dish; but I detected some cinnamon notes — and believe it or not, it worked with the herring. 185 Norwegian kroner
Lutefisk I Lefse is lye fish that was served with salted butter, according to Hardanger Fjordtraditions. It came wrapped in a traditional Norwegian Potato Lefse. I have heard a lot of negative opinions pertaining to lutefisk; but I liked it, as it was surprisingly good. I could have eaten more of it; but I preferred it as an appetizer and not as a main course because it was a little too buttery for me. 185 Norwegian kroner
Rosastekt Hvalkjøtt is pink roasted whale meat that was served with pickled seasonal vegetables such as carrots, beets, onions, pickled mushrooms, and sliced radishes. Mink Whales have been hunted locally since the Middle Ages. Nowadays, the practice is strictly controlled to ensure that it is sustainable. The whale meat was quite tender with a very fine texture and not gamey at all. Rather, it was reminiscent of very high quality sliced tenderloin of beef, with no fat, bones, or gristle. This was likely the highlight of the meal. 185 Norwegian kroner
Final Boarding Call
I highly recommend dining at Bryggen Tracteursted as a good place to dine on traditional Norwegian dishes. The food was very good; and the ambiance was rustic, quaint, and clean. The prices were somewhat expensive for the quantity of food that was provided — but then again, this is Norway, which is one of the most expensive countries in the world overall. The total for the entire meal was $100.59 in United States dollars.
Bryggen Tracteursted is located in one of the oldest and best-preserved wooden structures in the historic harbour district of Bryggen in the center of Bergen in Norway.
Bryggen Tracteursted
Bryggestredet 2
5003 Bergen
Norway
47 55 33 69 99
Operating Hours
Tuesday through Sunday from 5:00 in the afternoon through 9:00 in the evening.
Closed Monday.
Credit cards are accepted. You can pay for parking in nearby parking lots if you have a motor vehicle.
All photographs ©2024 by Brian Cohen.
